PARIS—The sudden death of Alexander McQueen leaves Gucci Group, the parent company of the British designer’s eponymous fashion house, to decide whether it can chart a future for a brand that was inextricably linked to its creator. Mr. McQueen was due to present his fashion collection on Paris’ runway in less than a month.
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While the Alexander McQueen fashion house was lauded for its daring designs, its financial performance was less successful. Gucci Group, part of French retail-to-luxury group PPR SA, spent years pushing it to make money, and the company only turned a profit in 2007, seven years after Gucci bought a majority stake in it.

Alexander McQueen store in Los Angeles WireImage/Getty Images

Rumor around the fabric swatch room is that Jean Paul Gaultier will part ways with Hermes. The six-year relationship as Hermes’ Creative Director will end after his last show in October. Gaultier who produces his own line under his namesake label will not be far from Hermes, as the company owns a 35% stake in the Jean Paul Gaultier brand. No word yet on why Gaultier is leaving Hermes, but speculation about sales and profits are not factors as the company is reporting increases in profits in all aspects of the business from Leather Goods to Ready to Wear. That’s all we heard from the swatch room, we’ll keep you up to date if we hear something from the water cooler.

Jean Paul Gaultier at the Hermes Fall 09 Ready to Wear Show

Oh Boy! Have these people learned nothing from their mistakes. KP Fashion Company who operated the Kira Plastinina stores went bankrupt earlier this year which forced all the shops in the US to close. Kira Plastinina is back but this time it will operate under the name K. Plastinina and is managed by Pink Square, based out of Russia. I can’t remember if I’ve said this before but they are going about this the wrong way. Yes her Dad is rich but you wont win the retail game by owing $2.5 million to the construction team who built those same stores that were only opened for 7 months. Kira Plastinina needs to focus on its wholesale business and start there first, Macys, the BP department at Nordstrom and so on.

Kira Plastinina

Rumor has it that Alber Elbaz from Lanvin may replace Karl Lagerfeld at Chanel. After scratching my head for 20 minutes and scramming for my phone so I can call Karl the idea almost seemed possible. Unlike the Anna Wintour leaving vogue to be replaced by Carine Roitfeld rumors, Karl’s potential predecessor is extremely qualified. Before I continue I must say that Karl Lagerfeld is Chanel, Coco may have founded the house but it’s Karl Lagerfeld who really gave the house the edge that it has now. Going back to Alber Elbaz he is another fashion prodigy, a God of amazing cuts, and tailored perfection. All reasons why I can see him taking the helm at Chanel.

Karl Lagerfeld from Chanel Vs Alber Elbaz from Lanvin

But Chanel sans Lagerfeld would be weird for some and a delight for others. For the Chanel enthusiasts they may not want to weather the changes that Alber Elbaz would make while others are craving for some new blood and a new take on Chanel. I know some people believe that rumors stem from the truth but in fashion they usually come around the time that contracts are up for renewal. Cathy Horyn recently asked Lagerfeld about the rumors and he answered, “forget about it” and that he will die in his boots. Not to mention the fact that Alain Wertheimer, whose family owns Chanel, said he would sell the house when the designer leaves. No formal word on what that means but my guess is it’s safe to assume that the Kaiser will not be leaving Chanel for now.

Back in march I did a post on the new collaboration between Uniqlo and Jil Sander. Jil Sander had been missing in action since her drama with Prada but she’s back to take on a creative role at Uniqlo. We all assumed the line would be called Jil Sander for Uniqlo but due to the fact that Onward Holdings Co. Ltd. still owns the commercial rights to Jil Sander’s name the line is dubbed +J. Major kudos to Jil Sander for naming the collection after me. I guess she didn’t want to use J.J.J I like +J so much better. And I’m back to reality. The fast fashion retailer hasn’t confirmed a release date yet but the collection will be sold at Uniqlo Flagship doors and online.

+J Hang Tag

Source: WWD

High-end department store Henri Bendel is undergoing some major restructuring starting with clothing. Henri Bendel will no longer carry clothes and will focus it’s business on Beauty and Accessories. According to The New York Times;

“Several employees briefed on the plans said on Thursday that they were told that Bendel had decided to eliminate the fashion departments because there was no sign of a turnaround in the sale of high-ticket items, but that beauty and gift products were selling well and typically with much higher margins. About 8 percent of the employees will be laid off, including sales clerks and executives in its buying office, these people said. About 250 people work at Bendel.”

Continuing with the restructuring Henri Bendel will launch of group of mall-like chain stores that will feature Bendel beauty branded and gift items. The six accessories only doors are set to open later this year.

Earlier this year eLuxury.com announced its plan to shutter retail operations over the next six months. While most closures are due to the economic crisis, eLuxury’s move is simply to pursue other interest(s) i.e. an online magazine focusing on luxury markets. According to an LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton (eLuxury’s parent company) spokeswoman the reason for the closure of the retail operation was not based on the site’s financial performance, but rather because many of the brands it sells have developed their own online presences.

“Starting in mid 2009, eLuxury’s new mission will be to create an ‘e-window’ into the world of luxury, by serving as an information reference for luxury in fashion, art de vivre, leather goods, wines and spirits, watches and jewelry, gastronomy, cars, yachts and services,” the spokeswoman said. “To that end, eLuxury intends to develop collaborations with the most prestigious names in the world of luxury media, as well as the main contributors of the luxury world.”

…Click to continue reading | No More Louis Vuitton at eLuxury

In the old days actors played in movies, socialites threw parties, and models graced the runway. Now they all take turns designing either capsule collections i.e socialite Tinsley Mortimer for Samantha Thavsa or full on collections like model Liya Kebede. The Ethiopian born Supermodel, wife and mother of two produces a children’s wear line called Lemlem which means ” to bloom”. The collection is handmade in her native Ethiopia. A partnership between her and J.Crew came about after meeting J.Crew creative director Jenna Lyons. Liya is now the exclusive face of the new J.Crew catalog and her Lemlem line will be carried at Crewcuts and Jcrew.com beginning in April.

Liya Kebede's Lemlem Collection

…Click to continue reading | Liya Kebede’s Lemlem at J.Crew

Jil Sander who left her namesake label that was once owned by Prada is back on the fashion scene with a new position at Uniqlo. Uniqo is a Japanese fast fashion retailer with the same price point as H & M. As part of her contract Jil Sander will oversee all retail products at Uniqlo excluding Children’s Wear and Accessories. Jil Sander will bring her minimalistic style to Uniqlo, she will also be working on a Jil Sander for Uniqlo collection due out Fall/Winter 09.

Fashion Designer Jil Sander and Uniqlo President Tadashi Yanai

The tween fast fashion chain designed 16-year-old Kira Plastinina has closed down all of it’s US locations, the first Kira Plastinina stores were opened less than nine months. Last week I went by the Las Vegas store at Fashion Show Mall and they had a sign outside that read ” 70 % off” which seemed normal. But when you walked in the store it was more of a going out of business sale as the sales floor was shy of merchandise. KP Fashion Company which owns the Kira Plastinina brand has yet to release a statement on the closings of the stores, but it’s safe to assume that the economy played a small part in the decission making process.

The Kira Plastinina Storefront at Fashion Show Mall September 08

…Click to continue reading | Kira Plastinina Exits the US